Melissa Zriny [1981, Jewelry + Metalsmithing]
RISD taught me the skill set to fabricate jewelry, set stones, and raise a bowl.
The most important skill I learned is how to think.
It is still how I approach my design process.
Surrounded by materials, my “palette”, I sketch, scribble and play.
I start pulling stones, shapes that are slightly off. I study the mix. How should they be set? I start sketching the idea. The color is right but the forms aren’t balanced.
The opaque Turquoise is working with the translucency of Aquamarine but something is still lacking. I leave the work for a while. I work on something else. I sketch some more and then I see it – the strong hit of chrysoprase that I will wrap in a silver bezel. Done. The result is a mix of charms that look casual and effortless. That is what I work towards – a mix of color, unexpected materials, that look effortless and elegant, appealing to all ages.
I have been working with my suppliers for close to 20 years.
My stones are all hand cut in organic shapes. The colors range in value and inclusions are allowed. This process doesn’t just reveal the beauty of the stones but we use as much of the stone as possible. I have worked with the family who supplies my natural shell for close to 30 years. I know they are not endangered. I spec out the exact shape I want and they hand cut and polish every piece. Every element of my work is started in my studio and completed in my studio.
I have some silver work done on my components by an artisan in Bali. I have worked with him for over 15 years. By collaborating with him he is able to support a team of artisans and keeps his craft alive. I am able to make my jewelry attainable. I am proud of that. We support each other. RISD is a testament to the importance of not just embracing but actively contributing to our global design world.
Someone who buys my jewelry does more than connect to a necklace, they connect to a creative community.