Suruchi Kabra Sauber [2013, Textiles]

Harkoi, a Hindi word that translates to “everyone” or “anyone” is an inclusive brand that thrives within a multitude of aesthetics, minimal and bold, textural and abstract. Harkoi started as a result of my knowledge of traditional Indian hand crafts and my training in textiles at RISD, to try and create something that is an amalgamation of deep cultural heritage and modern styling. I wanted to create versatile and inclusive clothing and accessories – modern heirloom pieces that will stand the test of time. My first two collections are designed to utilize the technique of bandhani, a traditional method of tie and dye that creates intricate patterns and is the root of the word “bandana.” Early depictions of bandhani can be seen in paintings on the walls of the Ajanta Caves, which show moments in the life of the Buddha and date to the 6th century AD. Originally used for Indian attire like saris, dupattas and coverups for weddings and baby showers, my idea was to use the traditional technique, but redesign it to be more suitable in the modern context with non-traditional patterns based on architecture, nature, and space. All Harkoi designs start when I am drawing and painting by hand at home, before creating CADs. I then work with the craftspeople directly and develop color swatches and samples. All our bandhani products are handmade at every step of production, in concert with the wonderful craftswomen who hand tie up to 1200 dots per piece. The cad pattern is first traced on to a sheet of acetate. It is then pierced with a needle wherever the design is marked. A sponge with soluble ink is rubbed on the acetate placed on the fabric. This leaves marks to indicate where the dots should be tied. The placement and distance of dots is very important since the amount of fabric pinched needs to be taken into consideration. The traced fabric is distributed amongst a group of women artisans who will tie the fabric. Since each dot is merely 2-3 mm in size, pinching such a small portion of fabric and tying it tightly to resist the dye, needs skill and experience. Once the design areas are tied, the fabric is dipped in a dye bath and set to dry. To remove the ties, the fabric is pulled on bias to pop the ties. All areas that were tied resist the dye and create tiny dots that look like pixels creating a larger image. All clothing and accessories are designed for gender neutrality and inclusivity. Harkoi products are already handmade at every step, using all-natural materials, and the packaging is all recycled and/or recyclable. The upcoming lines are even more planet-conscious, and I am pushing to be 100% renewable and sustainable in both material and process by 2022.